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hair color levels and developer volumes
Hair Care, Hair Color Care
September 15, 2018 By 0 Comments

Hair Color Levels and Different Volumes of Developers

In the earlier post, we have a deeper understanding of bleach and developer. We know that developers come in different volumes but is totally unsure how they work and which is suitable for our needs. Since it directly affects the color and shade of our hair, it is important for us to understand color levels and developers.

What is Levels?

Levels simply refer to the darkness or lightness of a particular hair color. From a scale of 1 to 10, 1 arrows to black and 10 points to lightest blonde. A developer is the oxidizing agent which opens the hair cuticle so that the color can penetrate into our hair. It disperses the existing hair color and lightens the color level depending on the strength of the developer’s formulation.

Most formulas of hair colors work with developers volume 10, 20, 30 and 40 in general
and the effects are as follow:

10 Volume (3%) Developer

A standard oxidizing strength for permanent, no-lift hair color. It is designed for use when you only want to add a tint or just a color tone to the current hair shade. Volume 10 developer opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color to penetrate and deposit into the cortex.

For mixing with bleach, a Volume 10 developer is used when your current hair shade is close to your desired hair color. It provides a gentle lightening of 1-2 levels depending on your hair texture and history. If your hair is dark and a major lightening is required for a particular color you want to achieve, then this concentration of developer will be ineffective.

20 Volume (6%) Developer

A common strength also with permanent hair colors, but it lifts the hair color level by 1-2 levels. A Volume 20 developer is usually the most common strength and has the best effect when a hair’s starting level is not more than 1 shade darker than the color you wish to achieve.

A Volume 20 developer is also a rather standard strength for mixing with bleach as it provides 2-3 levels of lift that is enough to take dark brown hair to a light brown shade. If your existing hair color is light brown, it will take you to a medium blonde hair color. However, this concentration of developer is not enough to lift a black or dark brown hair to blonde in a single bleach process.

30 Volume (9%) Developer

Works similarly to a Volume 20 developer, except it lifts a hair starting color by 2-3 levels and works best when a desired color is not more than 2 levels lighter than the existing hair shade. A Volume 30 developer is strong enough for most individuals to notice scalp irritation, though it allows you to achieve a 3-4 level lift with bleach.

40 Volume (12%) Developer

A Volume 40 developer serves only for lightening and provides up to 8 levels of lift. It is ideal for those who want to achieve blonde results and is recommended for use with lightening cream or powder. However, it is critical to note that this strength of developer is harsh on the hair and may cause hair burns if not used correctly.

Wunder Tips

  • Do not mix the color formula until you are ready to apply – the mixture is only active for 60 minutes.
  • Every bleach / color process damages your hair shaft – always use a protective hair care treatment (Olaplex is the most recommended) before and after dyeing.
  • To avoid unrealistic expectation, have a goal before you bleach so that you have an estimate of how much lift you can achieve.

XOXO,
The Wunders

difference between bleach, hair dye and toner
Hair Care, Hair Color Care, Style
May 12, 2018 By 0 Comments

What’s the Difference Between Bleach, Hair Dye, and Toner?

Yes, we get tired of our dark roots every now and then. We want to freshen up or look special for different occasions by trying on new colors. If you are the same as us, then you’ve most probably heard of bleach, hair dyes (semi-permanent / permanent), and toners.

So what exactly are the differences between these and what do they do?

Bleach
Very simply, it is a potent chemical that removes our natural or artificial hair pigment (in contrast to dyeing). The lesser the pigment you have, the lighter your hair will be. To bleach the hair, you mix a powder bleach with cream peroxide (also known as developer) together. Depending on the peroxide volume, each application of bleach can lift the hair color from 1-2 levels to 3-4 levels.

While bleach is a very powerful and effective product, it does affect the hair and dry it out. We recommend customers to exercise care when using these products as you may fry your hair if not used correctly. Try doing a simple treatment with Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector before bleaching, as it protects your hair and minimizes the damage. Aftercare should include the use of special shampoo and conditioner, and the application of hair mask at least once every week.

Permanent Hair Dyes

Something that almost all of us are familiar with yet unsure of what happens during the dyeing process – When the hair is dyed, the cuticle is opened and color pigments penetrate our hair. Dyeing our hair with these dyes are permanent, which means that they do not wash out but grow out over time. The greater the difference between your natural hair color and the dye tone, the more visible the regrowth. Permanent hair dyes are also the common options to cover gray hair.

Temporary Hair Colors

True to its name, these products rarely last past your next shampoo. They usually come in different forms from color mousses, hair mascara, spray-on colors, and colored-tinted shampoos.

Semi-Permanent and Demi-Permanent Hair Colors

Both semi-permanent and demi-permanent work quite similarly but they are different in their formulation. Semi-permanent hair colors do not require the mixing of developers, and deposit colors onto the hair with no lightening effect. As these colors do not penetrate into the cortex of the hair, they typically last from six to eight weeks and gradually wash out with each shampoo.

While demi-permanent hair colors also deposit colors onto the hair with no lightening effect, the color molecules are smaller and they penetrate into the cortex of the hair. Demi-permanent colors require the mixing of low-volume developers, and the colors tend to last longer than semi-permanent ones. However, the shades fade when the smaller color molecules come back through the cuticles after each shampoo.

Toner

It deposits the color on your hair without opening the hair cuticle. It simply coats the exterior of your hair with the shade without penetrating the hair structure. A toner does not achieve a drastic change in color, it is mostly used to tone brassy blondes. We usually recommend customers to tone the hair after bleaching to rid the undesirable brassy shades.

We hope this post provides a better understanding of the products. If you are still unsure whether the shades suit your natural or existing hair color, simply write to us at hello@wunderkult.com

XOXO,
The Wunders

Top Ten Hair Commandments
Hair Care, Hair Color Care, Style
April 15, 2018 By 0 Comments

Top Hair Commandments To Follow

1. Cleanse, Tone, and Moisturize Just Like Our Skin!

Cleanse: Professionals and experts alike have stressed that daily cleansing will strip the natural oil from our hair cuticle, leaving it weak and dull (this is especially so for colored and chemically-treated hair). While it may be a little tough in our humid weather, try washing your hair on alternate days or once every 2 days.

Tone: More applicable for colored hair, our Shimmer Lights Conditioner helps to maintain the beautiful shades as much as possible while protecting your hair from damage.

Moisturize: Apart from your routine conditioning, treat your hair to an intensive treatment at least once a week.

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2. Loosen Up with a Hair Mask

As mentioned in point #1, treating your hair to an intense and
hydrating treatment at least once a week will give it the
nourishment it needs. Sit back, relax and take some time off
every week with a treatment of your preference.

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3. Use a Serum

Is your hair difficult to work with? Or is it lacking of shine?
Need instant repair? Apply serum from mid lengths
(avoiding the roots) through the ends.

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4. Regular Trim

To prevent split-ends that cause further damage to our hair,
it is healthy to have a trim every 8 weeks.

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5. Using Spiral Hair Ties

Opt for traceless hair ties which stretch and expand
as necessary to prevent both breakage and headaches.

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6. Rinse the Hair with Cool Water

It never hurts to take an old wives’ tale seriously – warm water
opens up our hair shaft, leaving it rough and coarse. On the other
hand, cool water closes our hair cuticle while locking in moisture,
making our hair softer and smoother.

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7. Investing in a Quality Hair Brush

Not only will a good brush detangle your hair without breaking it,
it stimulates your scalp for further growth and prevents hair loss.

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8. Never Brush with Wet Hair

Unless you are using a wet brush, never ever brush
with your hair wet as this may break your hair.

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9. Heat with Caution

The heat from our daily much-used electrical appliances
(for blowdrying, straightening or curling) can penetrate
our hair cuticle, leaving it dry, dull, and damaged.
Try with a lower temperature or use a thermal protector.

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10. Sun Protection

Just like our skin, UV rays are harmful to our hair as well!
Invest in a product with UV protection to protect your hair
from the sun and other environmental elements.

We hope these quick tips help, and let’s enjoy the process
of maintaining our beautiful mane!

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XOXO,
The Wunders

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